Chicano

Chicano opened on Gough Street in 2021, founded by Gabriel Pérez and Edgar Vigo with the aim of cooking the dishes their grandmothers made. The founders say everything is made by hand from scratch, drawing on recipes from several regions of Mexico. The room is warm and cosy, and the restaurant has grown into a recognisable Hong Kong brand.

Order the tacos al pastor, the birria with braised beef and spiced consommé, and the chicken mole. Camarones a la diabla, tiger prawns in a fiery devil sauce, is another dish critics single out, and tamales and churros round things off. At the weekend brunch, chilaquiles and huevos rancheros are the draw, with café de la olla to drink.

It suits a date or a relaxed dinner with friends, and the weekday lunch is good value for Central. Book through the website or by WhatsApp; the restaurant does not accept cash. Chicano also supplies an antojitos menu at the agave bar COA in Central.